Where masonry jobs go wrong
Masonry failures are slow. Wrong mortar applied today starts spalling the brick face in two or three freeze-thaw cycles. A film sealer applied this fall traps moisture that spalls the face over the following winter. The work looked good at completion. By the time the damage is visible, the original contractor is long gone.
The 10 pitfalls
Using Type M (high-strength) mortar on historic brick
Old brick (pre-1930s) is softer than modern brick.
Grinding mortar joints with an angle grinder on face brick
Angle grinders remove mortar fast but are difficult to control near brick edges.
Insufficient mortar removal depth before repointing
New mortar must be applied into a joint that is at least 3/4 inch deep for proper mechanical bonding.
Applying film-forming sealers on masonry
Elastomeric or acrylic "paint-on" sealers create a film over the masonry surface.
Not addressing the root cause of moisture infiltration
Tuckpointing repairs mortar joints.
No cleaning after repointing
Mortar residue and staining on the brick face from repointing is standard.
Repointing in cold weather without proper precautions
Fresh mortar must be protected from freezing for at least 24-48 hours while it cures.
Structural masonry without a permit
Retaining walls, chimney rebuilds, and foundation masonry typically require permits.
Paying in full before the work is complete
Hold back payment until the work is complete and you have inspected the joints, the brick face condition, and the cleanup.
No written scope for what is and is not included
Masonry scopes can expand during work (more deterioration than expected, additional areas).
The bottom line
Ask about mortar type before anyone picks up a grinder. If the mason uses the wrong mortar or damages the brick face with an angle grinder, no amount of cleanup fixes it. Those mistakes are baked in. The time to vet masonry skill is before the work starts, not after.
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